Ciao Ethiopia, again.

Mis en avant

Addis-Abeba, Piazza, décembre 2019.

Je n’ai jamais été capable de soutenir une conversation en amharique, tout juste de me débrouiller sur un marché, d’indiquer une direction à un chauffeur de taxi ou de briser la glace dans un bureau. Trois ans après avoir quitté l’Éthiopie, il m’a fallu peu de temps pour m’amuser à revisiter la langue, d’abord avec le douanier, puis le chauffeur de taxi et le serveur du café de Kazenchis où je me suis installé. Pas de quoi se pâmer, mais qu’il est surprenant de constater à quel point ce pays ne m’a pas quitté.

Addis, Abeba, décembre 2019.

Addis a changé, pas complètement. La ville a revêtu des habits de béton, inharmonieux, tournant le dos à ceux qui l’habitent. Les bâtisseurs se livrent à un regrettable concours en élevant des tours au-delà du raisonnable (et du nécessaire ?). Au ras du bitume, le vent nouveau ne souffle pas le même air, du moins en apparence. Les mêmes échoppes, les mêmes petits cafés sombres continuent d’offrir un refuge aux moins bien lotis. Le quartier Kazenchis n’est plus que remblais et chantiers, il ne demeure presque plus rien de ces ruelles qui m’ont inspiré le roman. Plus haut, Piazza se tient un peu à l’écart, mais les pelleteuses ne sont pas loin.

La circulation est plus dense, mais derrière les nouvelles avenues asphaltées par des ingénieurs chinois, on continue de porter des sacs de charbons sur la tête, de réparer son antique Toyota Corolla, de faire sécher le piment au sol. Douce sensation de déjà-vu. Dans les cafés et les taxis, le ton est plus libre, les regards moins tendus qu’auparavant. L’Ethiopie évolue et c’est tant mieux, à son rythme et dans le désordre.

Je suis allé à Addis pour présenter mon roman « Kazenchis se tait le dimanche ». En arrivant, ma valise était quasiment vide, à l’exception d’un vingtaine d’exemplaires du bouquin. En repartant, elle était pleine de shiro, de dabo kholo et de kholo. Pour retrouver le goût d’autrefois.

Ciao Ethiopia, again.

« Kazenchis » débarque à Addis-Abeba

Mis en avant

J’ai commencé la rédaction de mon roman « Kazenchis se tait le dimanche » à Addis-Abeba, quelques mois avant de quitter la capitale éthiopienne pour m’installer à New Delhi. C’était en 2016.

Trois ans plus tard, me voici de retour en Éthiopie pour présenter mon livre lors d’une rencontre à l’Alliance française. Rendez-vous le 3 décembre à 18h30. Si vous êtes dans les environs, venez !

J’en profiterai pour revoir des amis, boire un macchiato à Kazenchis, manger un shiro, siroter une Giorgis fraiche, traverser la ville en Lada et constater à quel point Addis-Abeba a changé (ou pas). Programme chargé.

Demo or not demo?

VD BlueParty4

Last Sunday morning, they were few dozens to gather at the Blue Party office. Sunny day, loud music and happy dancing. It looked all right.

One of the leaders, who a colleague and I met two days before, walked straight on towards us. We were sitting at the terrace of a cafe opposite to the party office, awaiting the demonstration to set off. The coffee was awful, the man was in joyful mood. « We’re going to Meskel Square », he said confidently. Meskel Square… The biggest square of Addis Ababa, the one dedicated to official celebrations, not to rally of an opposition party. Officially, Meskel Square can’t host any demonstration given the ongoing construction of the railway. Surprisingly, the Blue Party leaders, who admited that the authorities delivered them an authorisation to march to Jan Meda, a vast public garden in the eastern part of the city, insisted on going to Meskel Square. Let’s wait and see then.

The man walked back to his acolytes who were getting ready in the office compound. The less timorous were taking placards out, the others were covering the place with blue flags. The speakers were crackling.

VD BlueParty5Last June, the Blue Party – launched in 2007 after leaders of the opposition have been released from jail – managed to gather about then thousands people in the Ethiopian capital. It was the first legal and peaceful demonstration organised by the opposition since a while. At that time, demonstrators asked for more freedom and democracy, called the government to tackle unemployment and to stop harassing opposition and Muslims leaders. Nothing less…

Four months later, in early September, the Blue Party planed to march again. But the government had its own agenda: the same day, it has scheduled an inter-religious demonstration « against terrorism ». No way the Blue Party could rally as well. The night before, Blue Party leaders told reporters after all, the police made a raid on their office, seized their material and arrested hundred of their members. The authorities denied it. The demonstration was rescheduled three weeks later, on this sunny Sunday morning.

But no more than hundred people responded to the Blue Party call for a new rally. Those who were carrying on placards seemed as determined as lonely. The blaring loudspeakers could not hide the failure. Few journalists – almost all of them working for foreign outlets – were here. Curiously one cameraman was exclusively filming the reporters, not the demonstrators.

One hour after the time scheduled for departure, the demonstration set off. Hundred meters further, the police blocked the crowd… who peacefully walked back to the Blue Party office. End of the demonstration.

En passant

This morning I was following the French minister of Development who was visiting few projects managed by the French development agency. And I saw this.VD Addis décharge1 copie

We were at the Addis Ababa waste collection center. This is where all the trash produced by the nearly six millions inhabitants of the Ethiopian capital go. It exists since the 1960’s.

Our convoy drove Vd Addis décharge4towards these people and made a turn to the rehabilitated area. Cleaner, less smelly, less crowded. While the minister was briefed about the rehabilitation project – in short, covering the waste and building a new site somewhere else – I walked back to the ragmen. The few Amharic words I know eased the tension. They allowed me to take some photos – but not of them.

VD Addis décharge2 copieLater on, one explained to me how these people are organised according to what they dig, select, and resell. It can be plastic, steel, cloths. More than six hundred people – men, wome, children – work or depend on it. In average, they earn 30 birrs a day. About one euro.

I promised myself to come back. But without any minister.